Preparation for Paris Brest Paris 2011

Objective: Finish the Oregon Blue Mountains 1000 km brevet, 75 hour time limit, no matter how long it takes!
Ride Information:
Day 1: The Dalles to North Powder, 400kilometers, 4053 meters climbing
Day 2: North Powder to Mitchell, 350 kilometers, 3322 meters climbing
Day 3: Mitchell to The Dalles, 250 kilometers, 3749 meters climbing
Plan: Start slowly finding my rhythm, and a group I could work with on the long rolling drag out Highway 14 to the Columbia crossing at Umatilla. Climb to Athena and Tollgate at my own tempo. Continue from there.

Day 1 - 400 kilometers and 13,300 ft elevation gain
Morning came too early. I finally slept for a few hours, up at 5:45 to greet the day. Ian Shopland, Alan Woods, Philippe Andre, Jim Hinkley and the remaining 25 starters were all ready at 07:00 when John Kramer finished the announcements and sent us off. Ian rang his bell for the final lap! I called Ellen as we rolled along into The Dalles. Del Scharfenberg said that I looked more fit than I had in years, thanks Del. Crossing The Dalles Bridge, I was dropped initially, but maintained a steady gap to the leaders who paused at the Highway 14 junction. Philippe and Alan were also there. The highway rolls up and down until Biggs, the pace was too fast for me so I settled in with the second group of about 6. Philippe and Alan joined in as well. This group went well until the long descent after highway 97 where two groups formed. I should have waited for the second group, but continued with Alan, Philippe and Greg from Iowa. The pace was higher than plan, and I worked very hard to stay, keeping my pulls short. However, I seemed to be positioned behind Greg on his aero bars often, with little shelter when he was in front driving the pace. I got some rest with Philippe pulling, but not enough. When the wind cycled around to the Northeast, I was toasted. Fortunately, the pace slowed somewhat as temperatures soared, and we finally entered the bike path on I-82 to cross the Columbia River again. The Umatilla Tesoro control stop was just ahead.

The Control went fast, a Subway sandwich for me as I had eaten all my road sandwiches due to missing most of breakfast because of the pre-ride jitters. The air-conditioned store lured me to stay and converse with some Americorp group kids from Sacramento. The second randonneur group rolled in and was soon ready to continue. Departing the store, Alan rolled in with knee pain. Bummers, too early for that! Our route continued east towards Hat Rock State Park, flat, easy double pace line tempo, I talked with John from Yakima for a while. Nice recovery time! The tempo increased with the turn onto Cold Spring road and the climbing began. I punctured about 2 miles up the climb, alone in the north wind fixing a rear tire. Just as I finished, Hugh Kimbal from Seattle rode up, so we continued on together. It was good to have company in the wind. We chatted and climbed as the temperature went up into the 90’s. Happily I had installed a third water bottle cage anticipating this section!

I was almost finished with two bottles and getting hotter when the roving support truck appeared most unexpectedly, I had no knowledge of this ride perk! Paul, Dr. Codfish from Seattle International Randonneurs (SIR), was happy to fill us with Coke, V-8 and ice water! Saved! I heard later that Ian ran out of water on this section. It is hard to recover from bad situations on a long timed ride like this! Hugh tired out and stopped, so I continued into Athena for water and potato chips in preparation for the Mt. Weston climb. This entrée to the Blue Mountains is long, steep at the start and finish, with rolley polley plateau in the middle. I reached the summit just as sunset was upon me. The ride up was magnificent, the view beyond words, and the temperatures falling steadily. The control workers were ready with hot soup, sandwiches, pie, and bon homme, just what I needed as I bundled up for the long gradual descent past Spout Springs ski area to Elgin.

The Grand Rhonde valley was asleep on this Saturday night as I rolled through hoping to catch up with Rick Blacker of SIR. The only traffic was between the Flying J control and Union was the late night bar crowd. Then in Union a Honda Car full of kids whipped up, splattered me with what seemed to be ice cubes, and sped off. Shortly I came upon the information control. As I completed this chore, the sheriff sped around the corner. I though about waving him down, but chose not to. Why bother myself with small town problems. As I left Union, the horn of a train split the night calm. I was climbing toward North Powder and a bed. Could I beat the train to the crossing? Again the horn sounded, this time above me? The railroad grade was gently rising as I followed the creek bed below. I did not cross those tracks for many kilometers, the train far ahead by then.

I rolled into the North Powder control. There was no electrical power in the town. John Kramer and his SIR volunteers had the situation all in hand though. I was fed, showered and in bed before 30 minutes elapsed, sound asleep when 3 others came in afterwards.

Day 2 - 350 kilometers and 10,900 ft elevation gain
My 6:30 wake up came all too early at 5:55! I was up, fed, and on the bike by 6:45, riding with Rick. We had a glorious morning ride to Baker. The North Powder River valley was resplendent, the snow on the Elkhorn Mountains reflecting the early sun. Baker was full of cyclists, the motor variety, and the ride out of town is filled with the throaty Harley Hogs of my Milwaukee roots swarming past in packs, some waving back to me. I was feeling great as we climbed along the Powder River towards Sumter. Highway 7 turned west and I started climbing the first of three “Cardiac Climbs.” Rick passed me shortly and then disappeared. I was going slower and slower, my intestinal tract suddenly not good. I turned off onto a gravel road into the sparse Ponderosa Pines. I got off the bike and was major sick with diarrhea. Fortunately I was prepared with the necessaries to clean up afterward. Enough on that topic.

Back on the road an hour later, I was moving real slow, weak, but moving forward. I was out of water though, when John Kramer drove past, stopped and filled me up again. I could not eat, did not want to eat, so I just kept riding over the climb towards the next control at Austin House. I stopped at a spring to fill the bottles again, and douse my cycling cap and kerchief to increase evaporative cooling. At Austin House, a touring group from Sacramento was in the parking lot as were Rick and Karel from Missoula. I cleaned up and rode out with them towards the climb before Prairie City. Of course I was dropped early. I could not eat yet, so my energy was really low. But I caught first Rick, then Karel on the long fast descent into the John Day River valley, and we regrouped at the park in Prairie City where Hugh caught us.

I was very concerned about the upcoming ascent of the Strawberry Mountains and the time limit at Parrish Cabin Campground control. I rode this awesome section with Alan last year and knew the challenges ahead. Four of us started up Logan Valley road. Soon Paul drove up with Coke, V-8 and water for all. Hugh stayed with me as I slowly crawled up past the grazing cattle into the trees along the creek. This is a beautiful bike ride, the sound of water filling the air, the light filtering through the trees, the road ever up and up. Hugh stopped for water at the Trout Farm as I continued. Several steep pitches near the summit, finally, I stopped riding and walked for 200 meters. It felt so good to get off the bike a bit. The summit was past and I descended, trying to recover as I plummeted into the valley. Up and down another ridge, then into Logan Valley. The Strawberry Mountains to the right, shinning in the evening light, the prairie to the left, full of green! It was so beautiful, and I was finally feeling a bit like food again. I put some dates under my tongue and let them dissolve.

There was another steep climb out of Logan Valley before the next control at Parrish Cabin campground. At the control, the volunteer Bill asked me a lot of questions. I could not think properly to answer any of them. One question, “Do you want to clean up?” this I understood. Thus I got a quick warm shower of my sore bottom. Then I ate solid food, noodle soup and white rice. Sounds yummy? Well it stayed in my body, a good thing. Rick, Karel had arrived earlier. Hugh rolled in and we were juicy targets for the swarming mosquitoes. I stayed as long as I could stand the insects, then left with Hugh. The others were already on the road. The evening sun was in our eyes as we entered road 15, climbing first, then into the shadows descending very fast towards Canyon City and John Day. There we stopped in a closed gas station to recover, warm up a bit, and prepare for the night ride.

A John Day police sergeant drove up and started asking us questions. “What you guys doing? Where you going?" We bantered back and forth, and as the conversation wrapped up, he asked, “Are you guys packing?” I don’t have a weapon, but showed him my plastic fork asking, “Does this count?” “Ha Ha, that could be a Spork if you shorten the tangs a bit” he replied, and drove out of our lives. Alan spoke with him later that evening.

The ride on highway 26 was fantastic. The dark night masked all sights except the road lighted by the bikes. The John Day river noises were clear and close, unlike during daylight with traffic. I very much enjoyed this time with Hugh and Karel. We did the control at Dayville, more soup, noodles, cookies, and now coffee. Three cheers for caffeine, the legal performance enhancement! The road descends until the river turns north. Now the road climbs along a tributary towards Mitchell. The dark sky has no light pollution, and I see the dazzling display of the Milky Way, the Big Dipper, Orion and other constellations as we ride along. Finally, just as false dawn brightens into dawn, we crest the Keyes Creek pass and bomb the 2 km descent into Mitchell where the hotel control crew, hot shower, hot food and drink, and sleep awaits. Our 10:00 wake up call turns into 08:30 awake for both Hugh and myself. Alan and Ian arrive just as I prepare to depart.

Day 3 - 250 kilometers and 12,300 ft elevation gain
I burn up a lot of time preparing for the day, chain lube, sunscreen, breakfast, toilet all seem like big jobs. Volunteers take care of water bottles, food, well wishes, and photos. Did John get the photo as I left the parking lot? Then I am on the bike turning onto the road chasing down Hugh and Karel who think I am up the road! We turn off highway 26 onto 207 northwards. Climbing, already I am overdressed, so I disrobe while riding. Off goes the extra jersey, then arm and knee warmers, gloves, I am down to only my Oregon Randonneurs jersey and shorts. The turn onto Girds Creek comes up fast. This lonely beautiful road follows a dry canyon to the John Day River, amazing. I am on another new road that is fantastic for cycling! The new bridge leads to Twickenham, another organic road, climbing for 2 hours, we saw 4 cars and more horses, cattle, hawks, and other wildlife. The hot tailwind is from the river, so I get no convection cooling in the bright sun-warming day. Slow is the game plan here, don’t overheat, conserve water and energy. Then ahead is Paul with his support truck. V-8, ice water and sunscreen do it for me, Mark Thomas of SIR catches us at this point. Onward over really fine new chip seal that I bomb up and down for 3 km back to 207, the main road leading to Fossil. Right here, Hugh decides that I need an ice water bath on the back, oh is he in for it some day!

Fossil is one of my favorite Oregon towns, friendly folks at the café, good food, and fond memories of stage race finishes and cycle touring. There is the pile of fossils up behind the high school, but no time for digging today. Hugh and Mark forge ahead as I wait for Jim to finish eating. We climb the old hill climb time trial from Columbia Plateau Stage Race, and then bomb the descent 17km towards Clarno. At the John Day Fossil Beds Hugh and Mark are napping away the late afternoon heat. We all fill up on water, soaking our shirts and hats. Across the John Day one last time onto the 13.5 km Clarno Grade. Windy, hot, 4 randonneurs slowly climb up and up. The smiling Paul support truck shows up again! This guy has great timing. Summiting, we see Cascade volcanoes in the distant early evening.

At the Antelope control, ride organizer Dave Read has warm soup and his trademark fresh Pete’s Coffee ready. With sunset it is getting cold. We change wardrobe and begin the climb towards Shantiko, Mark off the front, Hugh, Jim and I stay together in anticipation of headwinds above the crest. At Shantiko we don our final warm layers, it is getting colder each minute. The turn onto Bakeoven Road marks the beginning of a long, cold, noisy, ethereal experience. The sun has set past Mt. Adams. The new moon is setting just above Mt. Hood while Venus also shines above the summit. Beautiful. The wind howls in our faces, 25 mph steady from the Northwest as we work together through the sage brush desert, an occasional wheat field breaks the scene. Finally it is dark, the rough chip seal is poorly marked, but no traffic breaks the mood. Headlamps light the pavement, casting shadows on the brush causing grotesque shapes and images. Are those garbage bag piles on both sides? Colder now, we roll up and down, up and down, where are we, how soon to Maupin? Finally we start the twisty descent. My headlamp has limited peripheral effect and I cannot see past the apex of corners without weaving through the turn. Jim bombs down with better lighting while Hugh follows behind. What an environment for tired riders, windy, cold, black night, curvy road!

Towards the Maupin control, Jim and Hugh climb from the Deschutes crossing while I struggle, get lost, and finally manage to find the motel. There, volunteers from SIR Muoneke and Kole Kantner, learn how to make coffee, thick, black and bitter, just as I like it. I am blanked out, barely awake as I eat the noodle cup and apple strudel, drink coffee, and take some pain pills proffered by these two experienced guys. They did the pre-ride 2 weeks ago, and will ride the Wine Country 200 in Forest Grove on Tuesday. We leave the control. I am waking up, but almost fall into Jim as I leave the sidewalk onto the gravel parking lot. I struggle up the climb feeling the pain in my neck and back, legs, everywhere. After some indeterminate time, I begin to feel better. The caffeine and ibuprofen are kicking in. The climb continues, and I shift up two gears to stand. I feel better again and through the magic of modern medicine I go a bit faster. Looking back, Jim and Hugh did not follow along right away, but are not far back, so I keep pedaling expecting them to roll up. Focused on the road I complete the summit out of Maupin, Jim and Hugh are not visible. I bomb the descent into Tygh Valley, the road is straight and my lighting is adequate.

The next climb is steady 11km long and I am starting to really feel good again. Winds continue strong, but there are strange shapes like those piles of garbage bags from the sagebrush in the ditch, tall buildings, and lots of other weird visuals on this dark night. I turn onto Eightmile Creek Road. The wind is increasing, tearing through the brush and trees alongside the creek. The sounds are stronger now. Alan described it later as the Valkyrie screaming over the Norse battlefields. Winding down the creek bed on a road designed for Model T Fords, I struggle to keep my eyes focused. I am seeing double as I am too tired to track accurately. The information control at Fifteenmile Road is challenging for me, but I find the answer and complete the card.

Now only 12 km to go for me to achieve this quest. 43 minutes later I finish the descent, traverse The Dalles through the gusting winds, and turn into the Motel 6 parking lot. I walk my bike to the room where John Kramer has the final control. Mark, Karel, and Rick are enjoying the satisfaction of success. One beer and some peanuts later, John offers congratulations, a shower and a bed for a well-deserved sleep. Next up is Paris-Brest-Paris 2011.

I want to give special thanks to Ellen Michaelson, for all her support, encouragement and understanding, during my year of preparation and training for this grueling event. Thanks to my randonneur coach Philippe Andre for all his insights, to my ride partners Jim Hinkley, Alan Woods, Ian Shopland, Corey Thompson and all my riding pals for the fun filled kilometers. Thanks to Oregon Randonneurs, Seattle International Randonneurs, Portland Velo, and Team Oregon. Big special thanks to John Kramer and David Read for a fantastic event.